On the logic of pattern cutting: foundational cuts and approximations of the body
Publicerat paper Referee, Vetenskapsrådets symposium för konstnärlig forskning. Borås, 28 november 2013
Abstract [en]
Fashion designers are presented with a range of principles for pattern cutting. However, the main body of these systems are predominately based on a quantified approximation of the body. As a consequence, the connection of existing models for pattern construction to the dynamic expression of the body and its biomechanical functions is problematic. This work explores and proposes an alternative model for pattern cutting that, unlike the existing models, takes as its point of origin the actual, variable body. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the proposed model for cutting garments is based on a qualitative approximation of the body, visualised through balance lines and key biomechanical points. The model is developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Hence, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles in order to create alternative expression and functions.